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3D Printing: Difference between revisions
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We have many 3D printers. All of them are fused filament fabrication (FFF) printers. A variety of thermoplastic filament materials can be printed, but not all available printers are capable of these.
All of Fat Cat Fab Lab's 3D printers were graciously donated or found. Special thanks to [https://www.mfgriffin.com/ Matt Griffin] of [https://ultimaker.com/ Ultimaker], 3D Hubs, [https://www.seemecnc.com/ SeeMeCNC], Emily Chapman, [https://smooth.technology/ Smooth Technology], Daniel Buk for the Raise3D, and Nice Person Calvin for the Prusa Mini!!!
[[File:FCFL 3D Printers.jpg|thumb|upright=2|3D printers at Fat Cat Fab Lab]]
== Certifications ==
There is no certification to use these machines. However, our 3D Print 101 class is highly recommended for first time users.
== 3D Printers ==
{| class="wikitable"
|+ Fat Cat Fab Lab 3D Printers and Specifications<br/>(in alphabetical order)
|-
! Make !! Name !! Model !! Filament Size [mm] !! Nozzle Size [mm] !! Extruder(s)
|-
! scope="row" | Flashforge
| Pooh Bear || [https://www.flashforge.com/product-detail/flashforge-creator-pro-3d-printer Creator Pro]<br/> [https://all3dp.com/1/2019-flashforge-creator-pro-review-the-specs (More specs)] || 1.75 || 0.4 || Dual<br/>Direct
|| 227 × 148 × 150 mm
8.9 × 5.8 × 5.9 in
| [https://www.flashforge.com/download-center/63 FlashPrint] / [https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura Ultimaker Cura] w/ plugin || Dual extrusion.<br/>Tricky
|-
! scope="row" | Prusa
| Lemon Bot! || [https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-mini-semi-assembled-3d-printer-4/ Prusa Mini+]<br/> || 1.75 || 0.4 || Single<br/>Bowden
|| 180 × 180 × 180 mm
7.0 × 7.0 × 7.0 in
| [https://www.prusa3d.com/page/prusaslicer_424/ PrusaSlicer] / [https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura Ultimaker Cura] || [https://cdn.prusa3d.com/downloads/manual/prusa3d_manual_mini_en.pdf User manual]<br/>[https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-import-profiles-to-cura-4-x-windows-macos_17848#17856 Setting up in Cura] (5.X Windows path: C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 5.0.0\share\cura\resources <br/>
|-
! scope="row" | Raise3D
|
|| 305 × 305 × 605 mm
12 × 12 × 23.8 in
| [https://www.ideamaker.io/download.html IdeaMaker] || Recommended to use Rafts for all prints.<br/>''Slack Damon for assistance''
|-
!
| ''Watch this space'' || [https://www.seemecnc.com/products/h2-delta-diy-3d-printer-kit Hacker H2] || 1.75 || style="color:red;" | '''0.5''' || Single
|| 175 (Dia) × 200 mm
6.9 (Dia) × 7.8 in
| [https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura Ultimaker Cura] || Delta printer. No heated bed.
''Not operational; needs thermistor replacement''<br/>
|-
| Saxon || [https://www.seemecnc.com/products/rostock-max-complete-kit Rostock MAX V2] || 1.75 || style="color:red;" | '''0.5''' || Single<br/>Bowden
|| 280 (Dia) × 375 mm
11 (Dia) × 14.75 in
| [https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura Ultimaker Cura] / [https://www.seemecnc.com/pages/downloads MatterControl v1.6.1] || Delta printer. Tempermental. Part cooling fan may need attention.
|-
! rowspan="6" | Ultimaker
| Smol :( || Ultimaker 2 Go || 2.85 || 0.4 || Single<br/>Bowden
|| 120 × 120 × 115 mm
4.7 × 4.7 × 4.5 in.
| [https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura Ultimaker Cura] || PLA only
|-
|
|| 223 × 223 × 205 mm
8.8 × 8.8 × 8.1 in
| [https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura Ultimaker Cura] || Olsson block enables nozzle interchangeability.<br/>[https://support.makerbot.com/s/topic/0TO5b000000Q4vtGAC/ultimaker-2 Support (click tabs)]
|-
|
|| 223 × 223 × 205 mm
8.8 × 8.8 × 8.1 in
| [https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura Ultimaker Cura] || Olsson block enables nozzle interchangeability.<br/>[https://support.makerbot.com/s/topic/0TO5b000000Q4vrGAC/ultimaker-2-extended Support (click tabs)]
|-
| Ziltoid the Omniscient || Ultimaker 2+ Extended || 2.85 || 0.25, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8 || Single
|| 223 × 223 × 305 mm
8.8 × 8.8 × 12 in
| [https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura Ultimaker Cura] || Olsson block enables nozzle interchangeability.<br/>[https://support.makerbot.com/s/topic/0TO5b000000Q4vtGAC/ultimaker-2 Support (click tabs)]
|-
| The Feral Printer || Ultimaker 2+ [https://www.rooiejoris.nl/z-unlimited/ Z-Unlimited] || 2.85 || style="color:red;" | '''0.8''' || Single
|| 190 × 190 × 1500 mm
7.5 × 7.5 × 59 in
| [https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura Ultimaker Cura] || PLA only
|-
| UltiMeowMeow || [https://www.matterhackers.com/store/printer-kits/Ultimaker-3-d-printer Ultimaker 3] || 2.85
|| 0.4 Print Core || Dual<br/>Bowden
|| 215 × 215 × 200 mm
8.5 × 8.5 × 8 in
| [https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura Ultimaker Cura] || [https://support.makerbot.com/s/topic/0TO5b000000Q4urGAC/ultimaker-3 Support]<br/>[https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1667337567558 User manual]<br/>
Print Core nozzles cannot be changed! Dual printing limits width to 197 mm
|}
== Materials Policy ==
Members are encouraged to bring their own filaments for printing and store them in their bins when done. Below and above the main 3D printing table are various spools of 1.75mm and 2.85mm filament donated by others which are free to use. Any
When all donated filament is gone, that's the end of it, and you must purchase your own.
== Build Plate Preparation ==
Make sure build plate glass is clean and free of any oils or excessive glue stick by washing with warm water in the sink.
For best results for most materials, apply a thin and even layer of gluestick (two passes, cross-hatched, 0% overlap). Gluestick acts as both an adhesive and release agent (for thick layers) and the amount required is material dependent. For PLA and similar plastics, use two passes -- too much is not good. For CPE & PETG, apply 4 layers for better adhesion and release.
Certain high temp materials will stick strongly to glass and can crack it. For those, it's better to remove the prints before the glass cools fully to prevent this (ex: PC).
== Changing Nozzles on Ultimaker 2+ Printers ==
{{Note|Please return printers back to 0.4mm after use or leave a note of what size nozzle is installed -- nozzle size indicators are on the printers for this purpose.|warn}}
{{Note|Do NOT attempt to remove nozzles from Ultimaker 3 print cores!|warn}}
Ultimaker 2+ printers equipped with Olsson blocks can have their nozzles easily changed. Default for all applicable printers is 0.4mm (excludes Z-Unlimited).
The hot end must be fully heated and material removed prior to changing a nozzle, otherwise damange to the hotend and printhead will occur. The following directions must be followed for nozzle changing.
Line 83 ⟶ 115:
* 0.8mm - Fastest speed, lowest resolution.
=== Ultimaker Nozzle Dimple Codes ===
Ultimaker nozzles are labeled with nozzle size and/or have dimples to indicate size. The following list only applies to Ultimaker brand nozzles. Other brands may use a different system.
Line 90 ⟶ 122:
* 0.6mm - 2 dimples.
* 0.8mm - 3 dimples.
=== Olsson Nozzle Torque Wrench ===
Files for the torque wrench can be found here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/nozzle-torque-wrench
* Required items: 7mm socket with 1/4" square hole.
* Material: PLA+ (proper torque), CPE, PETG
* Print settings: 0.15 or 0.20mm layer height; Solid, 10 walls; 95% infill, No supports.
== Bed Leveling ==
Line 97 ⟶ 136:
== Slicing ==
[https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura Ultimaker Cura] is recommended for slicing files. It
== Tips for Successful Prints ==
* Watch the first layer or two before walking away from the printer. Check soon after that initial layers are adhering well before leaving printer alone.
* If your material requires gluestick, be sure to use the right amount, not too much and not too little. See [https://wiki.fatcatfablab.org/w/index.php?title=3D_Printing&action=submit#Build_Plate_Preparation Build Plate Preparation] for more info.
== Removing Prints ==
Line 110 ⟶ 150:
For mechanical and electrical failures of the machines, please stop using the machine and notify the #3dprinting Slack channel with the issue.
==
Fusion 360 can be used to model your 3D parts. There is a separate page [[Software_modeling|Software modeling]] which explores modeling software and offers advice and workarounds.
== 3D Printer Maintenance ==
Some regular maintenance is required over time. Below are listed roughly in order by descending frequency of required maintenance/adjustment.
=== Nozzle Cleaning ===
Nozzles should be kept as clean as possible for best results. Outer edges of nozzle tip can be cleaned by wiping with PLA while the nozzle is hot. Innards of nozzle should be cleaned whenever there is blockage.
=== Axis Rod Oiling ===
All smooth rod axes should be and feel lightly oiled, never dry. Oil before they get dry. Use light sewing machine oil. '''Never''' use grease! After oiling, with the printer off, move the print head slowly in circles across the full range of motion to distribute oil across rods. Don't forget to oil the smooth Z axis rods.
=== Leadscrew Greasing ===
This doesn't need to be done often. When the Z axis leadscrew is dirty or needs regreasing, wipe the leadscrew with a paper towel to remove old grease. Leadscrew should be re-greased (green grease, Magnalube). Spread a few drops of grease along the length of the Z axis leadscrew travel. It helps to use the advanced settings to ask the printer to move the bed up and down the Z axis to work grease into the threads.
=== Belt Tensioning ===
Belts should be taught. Loose belts will cause parts to be dimensionally inaccurate in one or more axes (X/Y). This can be viewed easily by printing a cylidrical shape with its axis in the Z-direction. Generally, the belts that need retightening will be the shorter belts on the X/Y motors. First pluck the belt and remember its feel and sound. Loosen the 4 motor mount screws and push down on the top of the motor very hard as you retighten the screws in a star pattern. Pluck the belt and it should twang higher pitched when tightened.
=== Printhead Axle Squaring ===
There are 3D printed tools for this for the Ultimakers. Ask David Choi (macakcat) if you'd like to learn how. Instructions [https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1667412443401 here] but they aren't fully comprehensive.
=== Cooling Fan Cleaning ===
Dust will collect on all fan blades and in the center fan heatsink. Hold the fan blades and blow with compressed air or wipe with damp cloth. Removal of dust collected on center heatsink may require disassembly of the print head. Do not apply strong pressure to the fan blades, they bearings are very fragile and may break.
== Using Ultimaker 2+ Z-Unlimited ==
The Feral Printer was found on the streets of Brooklyn. It's found a new home with us and has been modified into the [https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1661525705/z-unlimited-add-on-for-ultimaker?ref=card XXL Z-Unlimited].
=== Custom Machine Settings ===
Open Ultimaker Cura and go to "Settings" > "Printer" > "Add Printer" > "Add a non-networked printer" > "Custom" > "Custom FFF Printer".
Give it a name, and click “Add”.
Line 124 ⟶ 191:
* Nozzle Size = 0.8mm (or whatever is installed)
* Compatible Material Diameter = 2.85mm
<gallery>
Printer_Settings.png|Printer Settings
Z-Unlimited Extruder Settings.png|Extruder Settings
</gallery>
=== Important Information ===
* It's not recommended to print anything other than PLA in the machine because it has no heated bed.
* Make sure your filament does not have knots in the spool
* Be sure filament roll is securely mounted on the spool holder.
* Pausing a job before the extruder has cleared the bed-clamps will cause a collision.
Line 133 ⟶ 206:
* Try to keep the print hollow with 0% infill for really tall parts. But if you need to add infill, you usually don’t need more than 10% infill since the nozzle is a much bigger size
=== Preparing for a Print on Z-Unlimited ===
IMPORTANT - Follow these steps exactly!
#Raise the printer before loading filament by using the Move command in the menu.
#Manually 'Move' filament to prime nozzle before starting print. The filament under-extrudes in the beginning if you don't do this. We could make changes to the firmware but looking for it on the internet is a task the person typing this is not willing to do at the moment.
#Commence print file normally.
==
The Ultimaker 3 printer uses print cores. We have 0.4mm AA and BB cores. The nozzles on the cores cannot be changed.
The AA print cores can be used for printing: PLA, PLA+, PETG, ABS, CPE, CPE+, Nylon, PC, TPU 95A, PP, and Breakaway.
The BB print core can be used for printing: PVA (a water-soluble support material).
See Print Core Compatibility below for more information.
=== Print Core Compatibility ===
Material compatibility depends on print core type and nozzle size.
{{Note|PVA should NEVER be used in AA cores! PVA can only be used in BB cores and BB cores should only be used with PVA to prevent contamination. |warn}}
Items marked with 'Exp' are experimental (some tweaking may be needed and your results are not guaranteed).
{| class="wikitable"
|+ AA Print Core Compatibility<br/>
|-
!
! 0.25 mm
! 0.4 mm
! 0.8 mm
|-
! ABS
| Yes
| Yes
| Yes
|-
! Breakaway
| No
| Yes
| No
|-
! CPE
| Yes
| Yes
| Yes
|-
! CPE+
| No
| Yes
| Exp
|-
! Nylon
| Yes
| Yes
| Yes
|-
! PLA
| Yes
| Yes
| Yes
|-
! PLA+
| Yes
| Yes
| Yes
|-
! PC
| Exp
| Yes
| Exp
|-
! PETG
| Yes
| Yes
| Yes
|-
! PP
| Exp
| Yes
| Yes
|-
! TPU95A
| No
| Yes
| Yes
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+ BB Print Core Compatibility<br/>
|-
!
! 0.25 mm
! 0.4 mm
! 0.8 mm
|-
! PVA
| No (n/a)
| Yes
| Yes
|}
=== Dual Material Compatibility ===
These are the possible dual-extrusion material combinations.
Items marked with 'x' are not supported by Ultimaker. 'Exp' are experimental.
{| class="wikitable"
|+ Dual Material Compatibility<br/>
|-
!
! PLA !! PLA+ !! PETG !! ABS !! Nylon !! CPE !! CPE+ !! PC !! TPU !! PP !! PVA !! BAM
|-
! PLA || Yes || x || x || x || x || x || x || x || x || x || Yes || Yes
|-
! PLA+ || || Yes || x || x || x || x || x || x || x || x || Yes || Yes
|-
! PETG || || || Yes || x || x || x || x || x || Exp || x || Yes || Yes
|-
! ABS || || || || Yes || x || x || x || x || Exp || x || Exp || Yes
|-
! Nylon || || || || || Exp || x || x || x || Exp || x || Yes || Yes
|-
! CPE || || || || || || Yes || x || x || x || x || Yes || Yes
|-
! CPE+ || || || || || || || Exp || x || x || x || Exp || Yes
|-
! PC || || || || || || || || Exp || Exp || x || x || Exp
|-
! TPU95A || || || || || || || || || Exp || x || Exp || Exp
|-
! PP || || || || || || || || || || Exp || x || x
|-
! PVA || || || || || || || || || || || x || x
|-
! BAM || || || || || || || || || || || || x
|}
== Using Raise3D Pro2 Plus ==
'''Wireless connection to Raise3D Pro2 Plus 3D printer
'''
Download and install Raise3D's slicer "ideaMaker"
https://www.ideamaker.io/download.html
Come to FatCat Fab Lab, and connect to the local wi-fi
Start ideaMaker
Dismiss Welcome screen
Click "Printer" / "Connect to printer"
Click "Bookmarks" tab, click "+" (plus sign) to add a bookmark
Printer type: select Raise3D Pro2 Plus
Printer name: FatCat Raise3D (or whatever you want to call it)
Serial number: 10152017064
IP Address: 10.2.2.157
Click "OK"
On the Bookmark panel, on the row with the printer showing, click the right-most icon
(a right-pointing arrow inside a circle)
This will connect to the printer
Now, when you slice an STL, you will be offered the option to upload the resulting gcode to the printer.
'''ADVANCED (Identify current IP of printer)'''
Raise3D printers are accessible via TCP on port 31625
To discover its IP address, you could run the AngryIP scanner
from: https://angryip.org/download/#windows
And look for the IP that has 31625 open
OR:
Power on the printer, wait for the control panel to display the Home screen
Press the Gear icon in the upper right corner
--> The printer serial number is shown on this screen
In the left vertical navigation area, press Ethernet
--> The printer IP address is shown on this screen
'''Other settings'''
Default adhesion setting is RAFT, it is adjustable in the settings.
Become familiar with the settings on the display panel.
== 3D Printers Maintenance Log Sheet ==
Replacement 3D Printers Maintenance Log Sheets can be found here:
[[File:3D Printers Maintenance Log Sheet.pdf|thumb|center|175px|3D Printer Maintenance Log Sheet]]
[[Category:Lab Areas]]
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